Schrankogel (3496 m) is the second-highest mountain in the Stubai Alps after Zuckerhütl and, as a high-level ski tour from the Franz-Senn-Hütte, a long mixed undertaking: glacier, cable-protected rocky gullies at the Wildgratscharte, a steep ridge often carrying cornices and, finally, a boulder field. The tour requires fitness, safe conditions and alpine experience.
Ascent: From the hut head up-valley to the Alpeiner Ferner, as for Ruderhofspitze: climb the first steep step (from about 2320 m), cross the flat glacier tongue and ascend the second rise with its crevasse zone (from about 2800 m, keeping right). At around 2900 m branch off right, pass below the Nördliche Wildgratspitze and aim for the clearly visible Wildgratscharte (3186 m), climbing between the two Wildgratspitzen to below the col. Do the last few metres on foot up a steep, narrow gully, largely protected with steel cables. Take care in choosing the gully: the correct one is the left-hand of two gullies (as seen from the rocks on the right); at its left foot, an overhanging, paler rock serves as a landmark. Some parties make a ski depot here; anyone intending to ski down the flank should take the skis with them.
On the west side, an also cable-protected, very steep but usually positive gully leads down to the Schwarzenbergferner (in snow, the gully is preferable to the marked summer path). Put the skis back on at once and make an almost level traverse to the foot of the east-south-east ridge (ski depot at around 3140 m). The first slope of the ridge is very steep: climb as far right as possible, then traverse out left as high as possible onto a shoulder – this slope close to the crest can be avalanche-prone. Above this, broken rocky ground, easy to walk on, leads to the sharp ridge crest in the upper section. It often carries cornices – never go too close to the ridge if you cannot see the terrain in full. The topmost 20 to 30 metres are usually rocky, with slabs lying at an unfavourable angle.
Descent: On foot down the ridge to the depot, then over the Schwarzenbergferner to the Wildgratscharte, climb back up through the protected gully and ski down over the Alpeiner Ferner to the hut. The north-east flank is a steep ski descent for very experienced skiers: a fall would have serious consequences because of the rock bands below; the first person to climb from the ridge into the flank should use a rope.
Notes: Around 1680 metres of ascent including the re-ascent, about 6 hours for the ascent, longer depending on conditions. Full glacier equipment, crampons and ice axe are essential; a short rope for the gully and ridge is recommended. Best period January to April.
Descent: Skis, glacier, rock
Route description
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Franz-Senn-Hütte → Abzweigung Berglasferner2,5 km · Li
From the Franz-Senn-Hütte, follow the mostly groomed, pole-marked track to the head of the valley.
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Abzweigung Berglasferner → Gletschervorfeld Alpeiner Ferner1,1 km · WSi
From the head of the valley, climb on the right (facing uphill) over the moraine slopes to about 2400 m. Cross the Alpeiner Bach and make a broad right-hand arc up onto the glacier forefield of the Alpeiner Ferner.
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Gletschervorfeld Alpeiner Ferner → Alpeiner Ferner 2980 m2,8 km · ZSi
Follow the almost level ground for a few hundred metres towards the Alpeiner Ferner, then ascend across the remnants of the glacier tongue beneath the imposing, ice-free rock buttress at the former icefall. From here, make use of the undulating terrain to reach the upper glacier basin below the Nördliche Wildgratspitze at 2980 m.
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Alpeiner Ferner 2980 m → Wildgratscharte0,6 km · ZSi
Continue climbing westwards towards the Wildgratscharte, which is protected with fixed ropes and chain belay anchors.
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Wildgratscharte → Schrankogel1,9 km · ZSi
Westseitig führt eine ebenfalls drahtseilversicherte, sehr steile, meist aber griffige Rinne hinab auf den Schwarzenbergferner (bei Schnee ist die Rinne dem markierten Sommersteig vorzuziehen). Im Winter die Ski gleich wieder anschnallen und fast waagrecht an den Fuß des Ostsüdostgrats queren (Skidepot um 3140 m). Der erste Hang des Grats ist sehr steil. Darüber felsdurchsetztes, gut gangbares Gelände bis zur scharfen Gratschneide im oberen Teil. Sie ist oft überwächtet. Die obersten 20 bis 30 Meter sind meist felsig, die Platten ungünstig geschichtet.
Gallery
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© Fankhauser
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© Fankhauser
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© Fankhauser
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© Fankhauser